The main purpose of case photographs is to accurately convey the differences before and after the procedure, but we want to be able to take photographs that convey the true beauty of the customer while being accurate.
Of course, processing is NG, but if you have all the equipment and get the knack of lighting, you will be able to take higher-grade treatment photos.
Table of contents
One thing that can be said in common with any part of a case photo is that if you show your skin clean, the quality of the photo will improve dramatically.
Compared to the case photos taken with only the comparison before and after the treatment, the case photos taken with the intention of making the skin look beautiful are pleasing to the customers who took them and are easily noticed by other users. There is a possibility of becoming.
In order to take a beautiful picture of the skin while accurately showing the difference before and after the treatment in the case photo, it is advisable to devise lighting that adjusts the light that hits what you want to take.
The equipment and settings required for writing may seem difficult at first, but once you get used to it, it's easy. All parts can be shot with the same equipment and setting method.
Basically, we recommend using the same manufacturer's equipment as the camera you are using, so this time we will introduce the camera and equipment from Canon.
1, 3 light stands 2, 3 tracing paper, 4 diffuser arms, 5 snap tilt heads, transmitter (for Canon)
6. Clip-on strobe (for Canon)
7, B clip 8, reflector
It is convenient to have two or three light stands if possible. It can be used not only to fix the strobe, which is a light emitting device dedicated to the camera, but also to install tracing paper that softens the light by installing it, and a reflector that reflects light to brighten the whole.
Using tracing paper softens the light and shades the subject, allowing you to take beautiful pictures of your skin.
Tracing paper is available at consumer electronics retailers. There are several width sizes, but 110 cm wide tracing paper is recommended, and it costs about 1,000 yen.
Use 1m for shooting the upper body and 2m for shooting the whole body. There is 20m of tracing paper in one roll, so if it gets dirty during shooting, cut the necessary amount of tracing paper and use it.
Use the "light stand", "diffuser arm", and "B clip" to set the tracing paper for shooting. Place the tracing paper on the diffuser arm attached to the light stand and fix it with the B clip.
The snap tilt head is used to set the strobe on the light stand. You can buy it for around 5,000 yen.
It's best to have a clip-on strobe (external flash) and a transmitter that fires the strobe remotely (pictured for Canon).
Prices vary depending on the manufacturer, but you can purchase a clip-on strobe for around 60,000 yen and a transmitter for around 30,000 yen.
The clip-on strobe is battery-powered, so it's easy to set up and can be attached to the camera or fixed to a light stand.
The clip-on strobe setting shown in the photo above is a setting that is fixed to the light stand and used by remote control so that the strobe flashes when the shutter is released.
If there is no one to bring the reflector, you can hook it on the light stand.
If you don't have a reflector, you can replace it with a white cardboard or white cloth attached to the light stand.
If the subject's standing position is directly under the fluorescent lights in the room, shadows are likely to be cast on the face, so avoid standing directly under the fluorescent lights or have them sit or stand.
Just as mixing several types of paint makes the color muddy, multiple types of light do not produce accurate colors. Therefore, it is desirable to shoot only with strobe light as much as possible, so if there is a window in the room, close the curtains to prevent sunlight from entering.
Place the clip-on strobe fixed to the light stand about 2 m away from the subject and diagonally 45 degrees forward, which is a position where the subject can be shaded and appear three-dimensional. By separating the subject from the strobe by 2m, the light is diffused and the shadow is not too strong.
Match the height of the strobe to the height of the part you want to shoot.
The point is to hit the strobe from the front at an angle of 45 degrees. Since the subject is shaded moderately, you can shoot face and body parts in three dimensions.
Of course, you can set up a light stand right next to the person taking the picture, but if there is a light right next to it, it may interfere with the shooting or the photographer may be in the shadow, so it is diagonal. The method of hitting the strobe from the front is also recommended for people who are not accustomed to shooting.
Attach the tracing paper to the light stand and place it between the subject and the strobe.
If you insert tracing paper between the strobe and the subject, the light will be softened and the subject will be shaded properly, so you can take beautiful pictures of your skin.
This is the same principle that closing the lace curtains on a sunny day softens the light in the room.
On the opposite side of the strobe, install a reflector that reflects the strobe light and assists it. Place the reflector next to the subject and keep it close to the subject until it is barely visible in the photo.
No complicated camera settings are required. Set the camera to "Aperture Priority Auto" and the strobe to "Auto Dimming Mode". Although it differs slightly depending on the manufacturer, when the "automatic dimming mode" is set, the notation such as "E-TTL" or "i-TTL" appears.
In "automatic dimming mode", the light intensity is automatically adjusted according to the aperture of the camera.
With a zoom lens with a focal length of 50 mm, you can take pictures that are close to the image seen by the human eye, but if you take a case picture close to the face or body parts, it will be distorted, so the focal length is 70 mm or more. It is recommended to shoot at medium telephoto.
When shooting facial parts, it is recommended to set it to about 105 mm. The above settings are mainly for the upper body.
If you want to shoot the whole body, set the height of the tracing paper to about 2m (so that the whole body fits), and keep the distance between the model and the strobe about 1m.
If the reflector is also reflected, move it away from the image and adjust it.
The point is to move the light and reflector closer or farther depending on the part you want to shoot.
Even if you only need parts such as the eyes, nose, and mouth, it is recommended to shoot the entire face and trim the necessary parts before use, but when shooting only the parts such as when you do not have time to trim, the following Please pay attention to.
When shooting one eye, shoot the eye on the side where the strobe is applied. Be aware that if you take a picture of the other eye, it will be shadowed by your nose.
Also, when shooting both eyes or the nose and mouth, be aware that the photographer may inevitably block the light if you try to shoot close to the parts.
Since there is a difference in brightness between the side exposed to light and the side opposite to the light, the difference in brightness can be reduced by moving the reflector as close to the subject as possible. Normally, the white side of the reflector faces the subject, but if the silver side of the back side faces the subject, it becomes even brighter, so you can use it on a case-by-case basis.
When shooting body parts such as the abdomen, chest, and buttocks, it is better to add a little shadow to make the photo more three-dimensional and easier to understand. To add shading, move the reflector next to the subject a little away from the subject to control the shading. If you take a test shot and there is not much change, you can remove the reflector.
When taking a landscape photo, have the subject face the strobe.
With this, you can take pictures with a beauty close to that taken by professionals, but of course it is NG to change the brightness from before the treatment when shooting the state after the treatment.
If you are too conscious of taking a beautiful skin in the after-sales photo and it is different from the actual skin condition with stains, freckles, chloasma, dullness, etc., it deviates from the purpose of the case photo to convey the effect of the treatment. I will end up.
When lighting, try to keep the brightness as natural as you see it. Also, when you take a photo of the treatment before, decide the lighting setting and shoot the after with the same setting.
Photographed and supervised by photographer Naomi Hirabayashi